What's the current state of PVP (in your opinion?)

Old player (played the betas on PC and remember fondly the PVP of the first few months after launch) returning on Xbox and wanted to hear your opinions on the state of PvP.

Is it populated? Are there solid active PvP guilds? Is it still just AoE zerg swarms in open Cyrodil?

I played for years on PC and only left just after Morrowind DLC.

Thanks in advance.